After I figured out how the general shape of my final garment was going to look, I began trying to figure out the best shape of pattern to create that three-dimensional shape. The way that I figure out pattern pieces is a physically try to flatten the 3D shape of the final garment in my mind and cut up that design essentially into smaller parts. Once I’ve flattened out the pieces into a shape that looks like it will roughly translate back into the 3D space the way I want it to be, I take measurements of my body and apply that to the abstract shapes that I’ve created. Please keep in mind I’m enterly self taught when it comes to sewing!
I went through a couple iterations of possible pattern pieces in both in my sketchbook, and then in my notebook. I knew that this was going to be a slightly more complicated pattern and this is the first time I was ever creating a collar for a piece without a pre-existing pattern, so I decided to make a mock up against my personal wishes. I hate making mock ups, but they are often very necessary in order to really understand the shapes of your garment especially when you’re working with more unique designs then you are used to. My mock up needed some slight alterations from my original pattern piece, but genuinely nothing major. It helped me figure out sleeve placements and where I needed to put darts in order for the government to fit over the constructive undergarments. I also figured out where I need to add more fabric to the caller in order for it to lay flat and got a better idea of where the skirt needed to sit.
Once I was happy with my mock up, I cut it apart, laid it on top of some brown butcher paper, and trace around it to create my pattern. I genuinely cannot remember the exact measurement of the seem allowance that I added to it. I typically eyeball my seem allowance because I do not pay attention to the measurements on my sewing machine when I am in the zone. Most of my measurements are based off of eyeballing typically, because of my ability to render objects in three dimensions, pretty faithfully inside my mind. I’ve never had any fit issues due to eyeballing. This is not advice. This is just a skill that I personally possess, and I cannot figure out how to teach other people how to do it.
Anyway, I’ve included images of my pattern pieces below, if you would like to try to make your own version of the dress, but as I stated previously, there aren’t really any measurements attached to these pattern pieces.